New Zealand Archives - Sunset Obsession https://sunsetobsession.com/category/blog/travelling/new-zealand/ Love photography. Travel the world. Capture the moments. Sun, 22 Nov 2020 19:03:23 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://i0.wp.com/sunsetobsession.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/cropped-Logo512.png?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 New Zealand Archives - Sunset Obsession https://sunsetobsession.com/category/blog/travelling/new-zealand/ 32 32 101028772 2 Weeks New Zealand Itinerary for Landscape Photographers (South Island) https://sunsetobsession.com/new-zealand-itinerary/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=new-zealand-itinerary https://sunsetobsession.com/new-zealand-itinerary/#comments Thu, 06 Jun 2019 16:42:00 +0000 https://sunsetobsession.com/?p=4923 South Island in just 2 weeks? This carefully crafted and intense New Zealand itinerary will take you to the most photogenic places the country has to offer.

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As a landscape photographer, I felt both extremely excited and slightly nervous about spending two weeks in New Zealand. With so many wonderful locations, the country has been on my list of places to go for a while. But how do you possibly fit everything in just 14 days? After spending what must’ve been hours reading, researching and going through every detail, this 2-week New Zealand itinerary is what I came up with. It’s packed and intense and may not be for everyone, but it also features some of the most photogenic places in the South Island. That’s the itinerary I myself used and although not perfect, for me it worked out pretty well.

Mount Cook Road
Mount Cook Road, New Zealand

How is this New Zealand itinerary different from others

If you’re reading this article, you’ve probably seen other New Zealand itineraries out there. So, how is this one different? First, I’ve personally used this itinerary, so I can guarantee that it’s totally doable. Secondly, it’s geared more towards landscape photography and enjoying nature, just because that’s what I’m passionate about. However, I do enjoy traveling and want to see as much of the country as possible. So this New Zealand itinerary also offers a great all-around tour of the South Island, combining popular tourist destinations with some off-the-beaten-path locations. Lastly, I have detailed articles on all of the locations in this itinerary. To learn more about a particular spot just click on the corresponding link and it’ll take you there. I also have an entire series of YouTube videos covering these locations in even greater detail. You’ll find links to particular videos in each individual article.

Sunset in Kaikoura
Sunset in Kaikoura

This New Zealand itinerary only covers South Island. In my opinion, two weeks simply isn’t long enough to visit both the North and South islands. Yes, there are itineraries for that and you might be tempted to try and squeeze everything in. However, this will result in a very rushed journey with little time to explore anything other than the most popular places. New Zealand may appear small on the map, but it’s a large country. For two weeks, I say stick with one island. Believe me, you won’t regret it.

Sunrise in Te Anau
Sunrise in Te Anau

Finally, no itinerary is perfect. Always think about what makes the most sense for your particular needs. Feel free to change certain sections or even take the best bits from different itineraries to make it work for you. That’s perfectly fine. It definitely pays off to invest a bit of effort into planning, especially if you only have two weeks to work with.

Our route map

Below is a map of this itinerary for a quick overview. We start in Christchurch and continue north to Kaikoura and then Takaka and Wharariki Beach. From there, we cruise along the west coast making stops at Hokitika and the famous New Zealand glaciers before turning back inland towards Wanaka. After a short detour to Mount Cook, we visit the Fiordland National Park and Milford Sound. Finally, we explore Queenstown, our departure destination.

The entire 2-weeks New Zealand itinerary, therefore, looks as follows:

Starting in Christchurch and ending in Queenstown, this is not a circular itinerary. The reason for this is that I wanted to minimize the time spent in the same places. These days, most airlines allow planning a multi-leg journey so it shouldn’t be a big problem. However, you can easily change the itinerary to both start and end in Christchurch if you wish. It can even work with Queenstown as the arrival and departure point, but you’ll have to do some more thinking.

Day 1: Arrival to Christchurch + Kaikoura

Sunrise in Kaikoura, New Zealand
Sunrise in Kaikoura

After arriving in Christchurch, grab the rental car and let’s hit the road! Christchurch may be the largest city in the South Island, but we’re not going to New Zealand for cityscapes. Instead, we’re heading north towards Kaikoura. It’s a lovely coastal town and an amazing place to spend the first night in New Zealand. There’s a beautiful shoreline walk, a resident seal colony and enough goodness for great landscape photos. I’m sure you will be exhausted after a long flight, but hopefully, a 3-hour drive will still be manageable (just remember that traffic is left-sided in New Zealand!).

Day 2: Kaikoura to Takaka

Coastal road north of Kaikoura, New Zealand
The coastal road north of Kaikoura

Wake up early for an incredible ocean sunrise in Kaikoura, then hit the road again. We’re heading to Takaka, so get ready for a long 5-6 hour drive. It may sound horrifying, but there are lots of interesting locations along the way, so it makes for an excellent day trip. Two beautiful coastal roads, a mountain pass, and a quick visit to one of Marlborough wineries are just some of the highlights.

Day 3: Takaka and Wharariki Beach

Sunset at Wharariki Beach
Sunset at Wharariki Beach

After a long drive the day before, we can finally rest a bit. Spend the morning casually exploring the Grove Scenic Reserve or one of many other beautiful spots around Takaka. In the afternoon head over to the Wharariki Beach where huge cliffs, ocean waves and the feeling of solitude and remoteness create an experience like no other. Wharariki Beach is the main reason we drove so far north, but it’s totally worth it. It’s my favorite spot in New Zealand and a must-see for any landscape photographer. It’s incredible. Get there early and make sure to stay until sunset.

Day 4: From Takaka to Hokitika

Sunset over Hokitika Beach, New Zealand
Sunset over Hokitika Beach

Time to leave the vast and desolate north and return back to civilization. It’s another long drive to Hokitika, so leave early. Luckily, there’s plenty of scenic views and amazing little corners to explore along the way, so you won’t feel bored. Make a stop at the raging Pancake Rocks, visit the beautiful and secluded Coal Creek Falls, and take a stroll on the marvelous Motukiekie Beach before arriving in Hokitika for sunset. 

Day 5: Hokitika and Franz Joseph Glacier

Franz Josef Glacier, New Zealand
Franz Josef Glacier

Spend the morning at the emerald-green Hokitika Gorge, then head over to Franz Joseph Glacier in the early afternoon. The glacier may have retreated drastically over the years, but it’s still a mighty sight and well worth a visit. The valley floor hike to glacier is as easy as it’s beautiful. Easily one of the best hikes I’ve done in New Zealand and an excellent place to get some good pictures. Alternatively, book a heli hike tour to view Franz Joseph from above and walk on the surface of the ice.

Day 6: Fox Glacier

Walking on Ice at Fox Glacier
Walking on Ice at Fox Glacier

Fox Glacier is only a short distance away and equally impressive. Much like with Franz Joseph Glacier, you can either discover it on foot or book a heli hike. In the afternoon, head over to Wanaka. It’s an enjoyable 3.5 hour drive through the Haast mountain pass with some splendid views along the route. I recommend planning the journey so as to be in Wanaka by sunset. Get down to the lakeshore where the famous lonely tree is an excellent photography location during the golden hour.

Day 7: Wanaka

Wanaka Tree at sunset, South Island, New Zealand
Wanaka Tree at sunset

Wanaka is one of those places I wish I had more time to explore. Surrounded by the snow-covered peaks and featuring a plethora of incredible hikes, it’s a landscape photographer’s paradise. Filling a day here is super easy, yet also slightly frustrating (with so many options, how do I choose?). Roys Peak, Isthmus Peak, and the Rocky Mountain are but a few trails to consider. Depending on how the day shapes up to be, depart for Mount Cook Village either late in the evening or the following morning.

Days 8-9: Mount Cook National Park

Mount Cook covered in clouds
Mount Cook

Where do I even start with Mount Cook National Park? Magnificent mountains – check. Otherworldly glacial lakes – of course. Incredible hikes – not a problem. Finest New Zealand nature – you bet! Mount Cook is a must-see for any mountain lover and has everything you might want for a great landscape photo. My personal favorite is a hike to Tasman Lake, but Hooker Valley Track is equally photogenic. Honestly, there’s no shortage of astonishing photo locations in Mount Cook. Head back to Wanaka at the end of the second day.

Day 10: Wanaka

Fire sunrise over the Wanaka Lake
Fire sunrise over the Wanaka Lake

Hold on, we’ve already been here, haven’t we? Correct, but back then we only spent a day, so this is another chance to visit some of the sights you might have missed. The reason I have structured the itinerary this way is to avoid a long drive from Mount Cook to Milford Sound, our next destination. If driving is not a problem, by all means, shift the schedule around to your liking. Just make sure you’re in Te Anau by the end of Day 10!

Day 11: Milford Sound

Clouds over Milford Sound
Clouds over Milford Sound

Milford Sound is a popular tourist destination, but no landscape photographer should skip it either. The road to Milford is an attraction in its own right. It is without a doubt one of the most scenic roads in South Island with over 100 kilometers of fabulous New Zealand landscapes, lots of places to stop and short side-hikes to explore. Surrounded by the towering mountain peaks and full of amazing waterfalls, Milford Sound is a pure wonder. There’s a lot to see and photograph, that’s why I recommend arriving beforehand and staying at Te Anau overnight for an early start. For further tips on how to make the most of your time in Milford Sound, take a look at this article.

Days 12-13: Queenstown

Glenorchy trees at sunrise
Sunrise in Glenorchy

After a good night’s sleep in Te Anau, head over to Queenstown, the last destination on our New Zealand itinerary. Queenstown is widely known as the adventure capital of the world, so if you’re tired of landscape photography, it’s a perfect place to switch gears and go completely wild. But if not, there are some amazing locations in and around Queenstown. My personal favorites were hiking the Remarkables and a sunrise trip to Glenorchy, but there’s plenty of other options.

Day 14: Departure

It’s our last day and time to say good-bye to New Zealand. If you survived this itinerary, you’ll no doubt have captured a bunch of amazing images and collected some bright memories. To me, it’s been an incredible journey full of unforgettable moments and I’m sure you’ll enjoy your own trip as much as I did mine.

Mount Cook should be on any New Zealand Itinerary

I hope you found this New Zealand itinerary useful. Whether you take it as a base for your personal adventure, or just borrow a couple of ideas, as long as it’s helpful, I’m happy. As always, feel free to reach out with any comments or questions or simply let me know what you thought. Let’s chat!

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Landscape Photography Locations in Queenstown https://sunsetobsession.com/landscape-photography-locations-queenstown/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=landscape-photography-locations-queenstown https://sunsetobsession.com/landscape-photography-locations-queenstown/#respond Wed, 22 May 2019 10:57:58 +0000 https://sunsetobsession.com/?p=4885 Situated on the shores of a scenic lake Wakatipu and surrounded by the glorious mountain ridges, Queenstown is not only world’s adventure capital, but also an amazing place for landscape photography.

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While Queenstown is commonly referred to as adventure capital of the world, with all sorts of adrenaline-filled activities available to those who want to put their courage to a test, it’s also an amazing destination for landscape photography. Situated on the shores of a scenic lake Wakatipu and surrounded by the glorious mountain ridges, Queenstown is a lovely town in a beautiful part of New Zealand. We only spent a couple of days in the area but were completely fascinated by it. In this article, I share my tips on some of the more prominent landscape photography locations in and around Queenstown.

Wild Flowers in Glenorchy, New Zealand

Landscape Photography In Queenstown

If you only have a few hours in Queenstown, there are a couple of good spots right in the city. A good location for sunset and arguably the best view in town is from Bob’s Peak. It is easily reachable by the Skyline gondola or via a relatively easy hour-long hike through the forest. At the top, you will be treated to some breathtaking panoramas of Queenstown and Lake Wakatipu far below.

View over Queenstown from the Skyline station terrace
View over Queenstown from the Skyline station terrace

An obvious photo spot is on the gondola station terrace, which offers a clean and unobstructed view of the city. One downside to it is that it tends to be busy, especially at sunset. For a more solitary experience, there is another vantage point a bit further up, where the paragliders take off. The views are similar but it’s far less crowded. In fact, we had it all to ourselves when we were there. The place is a bit difficult to find, so I’ve marked it on this map – follow the path up past the luge track and you’ll eventually reach it. 

Another excellent landscape photography location in the city is Queenstown Gardens located on a small peninsula. Queenstown Trail follows the lakeshore around the peninsula and is a pleasant stroll with tons of opportunities for a good image. The view across the lake is marvelous, but it’s especially picturesque during sunset when the Remarkables mountain ridge to the east is beautifully highlighted by the setting sun.

Queenstown Gardens is one of the best landscape photography locations in Queenstown
Sunset in Queenstown Gardens

A Trip to Glenorchy

Glenorchy is a lovely little town on the northern end of Lake Wakatipu. This gorgeous region served as a filming set for many movies, including the Lord of the Rings and the Hobbit. If you’re interested, a specialized Lord of the Rings tour will take you to the most interesting locations. But even without a tour, Glenorchy is one of the best half-day excursions from Queenstown and I wholeheartedly recommend it. The drive to Glenorchy is 45 minutes of spectacular landscapes and breathtaking views, with lots of pull-over spots and short side hikes for those who want to explore.

Glenorchy Road, New Zealand
Glenorchy Road

Personally, I recommend waking up before dawn and heading to Glenorchy for sunrise. One of my most memorable sunrises in New Zealand was in Glenorchy. It’s a beautiful place to catch the first light and as a bonus you can then explore the Glenorchy road on the way back to Queenstown, well before the traffic builds up by late morning. A perfect spot for sunrise in Glenorchy is right next to the wharf. Here, you will find a jetty and a bunch of cool little trees growing in the water, both of which make an excellent subject for a stunning photo.

A beautiful sunrise in Glenorchy
A beautiful sunrise in Glenorchy

Stick around in Glenorchy after the sunrise and explore the waterfront for a bit. It’s a lovely place with tons of potential compositions. I took some very nice images there, including a photo of the blooming flowers at the top of this article.

Glenorchy Dock in early morning light, New Zealand
Glenorchy Dock in early morning light

Hiking the Remarkables

The Remarkables is a mountain range to the east of Queenstown. And, as the name shrewdly suggests, these peaks truly are remarkable. As I mentioned earlier in the article, the ridge is visible from Queenstown and looks fabulous at sunset. But, we can do one better! How about hiking to the very top for an ultimate bird’s eye panorama of Queenstown and the surrounding area?

Hiking the Remarkables Range, New Zealand
Hiking the Remarkables Range

Now, don’t worry, I don’t actually suggest to hike the entire way up. Luckily, there’s a much easier way. There’s a road that gets you all the way up to the Remarkables ski area. From there, it’s only about an hour-long hike to the viewpoint. Keep in mind that the last few kilometers to the station aren’t paved. It is well-maintained road, however, and easily passable on any vehicle. Just drive slowly and pay attention. 

View of Queenstown from the Remarkables viewpoint, New Zealand
View of Queenstown from the Remarkables viewpoint

There are several hikes in the area. The one we did leads to what Google calls the Remarkables Ultimate View Point. You can see it on the far left onthis map. The track can be a little tricky to find, however, especially when there’s snow. Basically, you need to follow the blue line from the station labeled The Cat Walk, then switch to Calypso line. Eventually, you’ll reach the final ski lift tower. From there, the path to the viewpoint will be clearly visible. 

Upper ski lift, Remarkables Range, New Zealand
Upper ski lift

Quite unexpectedly, this hike turned out to be my favorite in New Zealand. To a large extent, this had to do with the weather conditions that we had. We visited Queenstown at the very end of October. The ski season was over by that time, but while spring brought warm sunny days to the lower areas, there was still snow higher in the mountains. It’s that combination of snow and lovely spring weather that made the ascent so much fun. A white and calm winter landscape proved to be a welcome change and allowed me to capture images that are very different from what I shot elsewhere during the trip.

Almost at the top, Remarkables Range, New Zealand
Almost at the top

Other locations

Queenstown is a treasure trove for landscape photographers. The locations I have listed in here are the most obvious of course, but there are many others. With so many lakes and mountains around, it’d honestly be hard to go wrong. Explore on your own or check out this article (and others on that awesome blog!) for some additional recommendations.

If you enjoy hiking, there are also numerous walking trails near Queenstown. Personally, I’d love to do the famous Ben Lomond summit track next time, but there are others too. A hike to Lake Alta in the Remarkables ski area could easily be combined with the viewpoint one that we did for a fun day-trip in the mountains. For even more options, take a look at this blog post.

Another image of sunrise in Glenorchy, New Zealand
Another image of sunrise in Glenorchy

As always, check out my YouTube video from Queenstown for even more details and I would highly appreciate any comments, questions, remarks, and suggestions that you might have. I’m always happy to chat, so feel free to write anything and let’s do that!

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Landscape Photographer’s Guide to Milford Sound https://sunsetobsession.com/milford-sound/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=milford-sound https://sunsetobsession.com/milford-sound/#respond Wed, 08 May 2019 22:06:54 +0000 https://sunsetobsession.com/?p=4841 Located in the Fiordland National Park, Milford Sound is a stunning fjord. Today, I share my tips on making the most of the day there and taking some great images.

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Located in the heart of the Fiordland National Park, Milford Sound is a beautiful destination that makes its way onto most New Zealand itineraries. And rightfully so. Even the road there is an attraction in its own right. Twisting through the snow-capped mountains and past the ice-blue lakes, this scenic drive is any landscape photographer’s dream. With so many fabulous sights at every turn, picking the best ones is never easy. So if you only have one day in Milford Sound, here are my tips on how to make the most out of it and walk away with some great photos.

Milford Sound Road, New Zealand

What is Milford Sound?

Even though it’s called Milford Sound, Milford is actually a fjord in the southwest of New Zealand’s South Island. The area attracts numerous tourists who come here to explore the fjord on board of a cruise boat and drive the famous road. It is also quite popular with landscape photographers, who enjoy a wide variety of stunning scenery to shoot, including the iconic Mitre Peak. 

Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
Fiordland National Park

To make to most of your day in Milford Sound, I suggest staying overnight in Te Anau and having a rental car. This will allow you to start early and be flexible with the schedule, which is essential for landscape photography. There are organized bus tours from both Te Anau and Queenstown that are an excellent option for those who simply want to enjoy nature without much stress or rush. However, traveling with a group will severely limit your ability to move around freely. Therefore, I always recommend doing your own driving.

Milford Sound, New Zealand
Milford Sound

It’s also worth noting that the road to Milford Sound is rather twisty. Traffic is slow and overtaking is not at all easy. The highway gets increasingly busy after 10 am, as the tourist buses get on their way. To avoid getting stuck behind one, I suggest leaving early. If you have booked a tour of the fjord, allow yourself enough time to reach the harbor. Generally, I found Google Maps predictions quite reliable, but it’s best to be on a safe side.

Sunrise in Te Anau

Landscape photography is all about the best light. Since you’ll be starting your day quite early anyway, why not wake up before dawn to capture those beautiful morning colors? Luckily, you won’t have to travel far. Head over to Te Anau lakeshore and you’ll find lots of great compositions there. Snowy mountains on the far side of the lake make for an amazing background as they catch the morning glow. Just search for a suitable foreground and be sure to bring a tripod and ND filters.

Sunrise at Te Anau lake, New Zealand
Sunrise at Te Anau lake

The Milford Sound Road

The road to Milford Sound is more than a hundred kilometers of amazing scenery. For me, the best way to experience this beauty is to simply allow yourself to get lost. Rather than coming up with a predetermined list of viewpoints, create your own adventure and stop whenever you feel like it. Trust me, there will be no shortage of amazing vistas. Having said that though, below are a few places that are worth considering.

Mirror Lakes

I’m including the Mirror Lakes in the list because it is one of the more popular stops on route to Milford Sound. These small lakes are located right next to the road and are super easy to access. A short five-minute walk leads to the waterfront where Earl Mountains can be seen reflected nicely in the water. That is if you’re lucky. If there is even little wind, there probably won’t be much to see other than the ripple on the surface of the lake. Fabulous as it may be, in my book the ripple doesn’t quite qualify for an epic landscape photo. Personally, I think Mirror Lakes can easily be skipped in favor of more interesting locations.

A typical photo from the Mirror Lakes
A typical photo from the Mirror Lakes

Hollyford River

The Hollyford River is one of the places that I discovered accidentally when driving around. This shallow but rapid mountain stream flows alongside the road for a few kilometers and is ideal for some water action photography. There are several pullout areas, but my personal favorite is the one right after the Falls Creek Waterfall. Here, it’s easy to get down to the riverbank and shoot close to the stream. Rocks and boulders offer plenty of foreground interest and the mountains in the background complete this nice and simple composition.

Hollyford River, Milford Sound road, New Zealand
Hollyford River

The Chasm

The Chasm is another highlight of the Milford Sound road worth a quick stop. It’s a short and easy half an hour walk that leads through the forest and over a series of waterfalls and natural caves. The footbridges along the way offer an excellent opportunity to glance down into the abyss and see the water rushing through the caverns below with immense force.

Water rushing far below in the Chasm
Water rushing far below in the Chasm

As beautiful and impressive as the Chasm is, it’s also incredibly hard to photograph. The images don’t truly showcase the depth of the caves and the sheer power of the stream gushing down below. Coming up with a good angle is another challenge, even with an ultra-wide lens. I’ve read about an unmarked path leading down to a hidden spot with an awesome view just past the second bridge. Unfortunately, much as I searched, I couldn’t find it. As it was raining by then, I didn’t really feel like exploring further. Wet rocks are very slippery and falling down into the Chasm is a seriously bad idea. In the end, I had to settle for a rather nondescript photo shown below.

The Chasm stream, New Zealand
The Chasm stream

Key Summit Track

There are several good hikes in Fiordland National Park. If you got time, I definitely recommend doing at least one of them. According to my research, the two most interesting are the Marian Lake Track and the Key Summit Track. Originally, I wanted to do the Marian Lake as it’s apparently more scenic. Unfortunately, it is also the longer and more difficult hike. As we were running late for the boat tour, we changed our plan in the last minute and decided to explore Key Summit Track instead.

Key Summit Track, Milford Sound, New Zealand
Key Summit Track

The trail begins at the Divide parking area and follows the Routeburn Track for the first half an hour or so. It then branches off to a series of switchbacks that eventually end at Key Summit above. It’s not a difficult hike but definitely requires some stamina. The path to the top offers fantastic views of the Fiordland National Park but don’t stop there! Continue past the summit for another 10-15 minutes to reach a viewpoint from which lake Marian is visible in the distance. It’s a lovely sight and the only way to see the lake other than hiking to it.

View of Lake Marian from Key Summit Track
View of Lake Marian from Key Summit Track

From here, the unsigned path goes further along the ridge to what I’ve read is an even more impressive viewpoint. Unfortunately, by then we were seriously risking to be late for our fjord cruise and had to turn back. If you ever get there, let me know how it was!

Milford Sound Cruise

No trip to Milford Sound is complete without booking a cruise and seeing it from the water. An hour and a half long boat ride takes you past incredible mountain landscapes and amazing waterfalls. The sights are truly incredible… if the weather is fine. When it rains, Milford Sound just isn’t the same. Very moody and still beautiful, but quite different from how I imagine it looks on a sunny day.

Milford Sound on a rainy afternoon, New Zealand
Milford Sound on a rainy afternoon

Conditions in Fiordland can change very quickly. The photos from the Key Summit and the ones here may seem like they were taken on two different days while in reality, they are barely a couple hours apart. On average, it rains half the days of the year in this part of New Zealand, so trying to guess the weather beforehand is almost pointless. The only advice I can give: hope for the best but make sure to bring a raincoat!

Stirling Falls is one of the highlights of the Milford Sound cruise
Stirling Falls is one of the highlights of the Milford Sound cruise

I spent hours prior to the trip trying to decide which cruise to go with. Is the early morning light better? Or should I book the last boat of the day? In the end, all that research was rendered irrelevant by the weather, but I still think that the afternoon is better for photography. There are other benefits too. The tourist buses will be gone by then so there won’t be too many people on the boat. Also, if you plan on shooting sunset at Milford Sound, you can just stay after the cruise, without having to drive back and forth. We took a tour by Jucy Cruise departing at 3:45 pm (spring and summer only) and other than the rain it was great. The timing was perfect as well.

Sunset in Milford Sound

Interestingly enough, the most impressive views of the fjord are not from the boat but rather from the foreshore walkway. To landscape photographers, I definitely recommend staying in Milford Sound for sunset. If you take the afternoon tour, you’ll still have a couple hours of light afterwards to scout out the location for sunset. Be mindful of the tides, however. The water is pretty shallow close to the shore, so when its level changes, so does the landscape, quite drastically. The composition you’ve chosen may look completely different by the time the sky starts burning.

From the parking lot, you can either walk left to the Milford Sound Lookout or right towards the cruise terminal. Both options offer great views, so pick the one that looks promising on that particular day. The iconic shot from Milford Sound is that of a dominating Mitre Peak. However, depending on the season and the weather, that composition may or may not work. I was lucky enough to catch some light in the sky after all the rain earlier, but the action happened away from Mitre Peak. It’s still a lovely sunset image, just not that classic photo you might have in mind.

Burning sky in Milford Sound
Burning sky in Milford Sound

Milford Sound is a beautiful part of New Zealand and should definitely be on any landscape photographer’s itinerary. If you can, stay for a few days to catch a variety of weather conditions. If not, do some research and make the most out of the time you have. Hopefully, this article has been somewhat helpful in that. I also recommend watching my YouTube video covering Milford Sound, and as always, let me know what you think in the comment section and let’s chat!

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Top 5 landscape photography locations in Mount Cook https://sunsetobsession.com/landscape-locations-in-mount-cook/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=landscape-locations-in-mount-cook https://sunsetobsession.com/landscape-locations-in-mount-cook/#comments Wed, 01 May 2019 10:18:48 +0000 https://sunsetobsession.com/?p=4809 Mount Cook National Park is treasure trove of beautiful views and countless things to photograph. You can explore it for months, but here are the top 5 locations that should definitely be on your list.

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Mount Cook National Park is an amazing location for landscape photography, with literally endless opportunities for a good image. One could easily spend months in this part of New Zealand and never run out of good compositions. Unfortunately, we only had two days to explore this beautiful area. This means I had to think hard about where to go and what to shoot. So if you have limited time in the area, here are my top 5 locations for photography in Mount Cook National Park.

Lake Pukaki Viewing Point

The first spot is Lake Pukaki Viewing Point. Located directly on State Highway 8 between Wanaka and Tekapo, it’s the easiest one to access. You don’t even need to go into the national park! There’s a big parking lot and a tourist information center nearby. This means there are always lots of people around, but the view is unbeatable. On a clear day, you can see Mount Cook in the distance, reflecting nicely in the water of Lake Pukaki. It’s a very simple and obvious composition, but lovely nonetheless. I especially like the image below, as it was the only time when we actually got to see Aoraki Mount Cook in all its glory. For the rest of our trip, the great mountain was always obscured by the clouds.

Lake Pukaki Viewing Point is a great landscape photography location near Mount Cook
Aoraki Mount Cook in all its glory

This location is the furthest one from Mount Cook, so you’ll need a long lens. I suggest being at the viewpoint in the late afternoon, but it’s excellent for photography throughout the day. I just love the sight of Aoraki in the calm and sunny weather with some clouds. So, if you’re driving past, do a quick stop and capture that lovely photo. Oh, and a pro tip – make sure to try some salmon in the nearby Mount Cook Alpine Salmon, it’s absolutely delicious!

Peter’s Lookout

As you turn north towards Mount Cook National Park, you will soon be passing another great photography location. Peter’s Lookout features similar views but is far less crowded. However, it is much more popular among the photographers due to the unique composition that it offers. Peter’s Lookout is situated on top of a small hill whichallows usingthe road below as a leading line towards Mount Cook itself. This opens up a whole range of creative opportunities, from using cars as a foreground interest to adding light trails duringthe blue hour.

Peter's Lookout is one of landscape photographer's favourite spots
View from the Peter’s Lookout

Peter’s Lookout is a perfect location for sunrise and I’ve seen some amazing images from there. Sunsets could work too, but a lot depends on the conditions on a given day. I’d say it’s less ideal due to the way the light is falling. Personally, I didn’t manage to get a good sunset photo there. After that, the weather had turned to worse, so I never quite had a chance to capture that epic morning shot either. Instead, I had to settle for a dark and moody image, but I still quite like the result.

Lake Pukaki under the moody skies
Lake Pukaki under the moody skies

Tasman Lake

There are countless hikes and viewpoints within Mount Cook National Park, but by far my favorite is the Tasman Lake. This beautiful glacial lake is incredibly scenic and very easy to access. A short hike will lead you to the shore where rocks, icebergs and the mountains in the background make for a perfect composition. It’s another sunrise spot, so best come early. But really, this location is excellent no matter when you’re there. Long exposures are the way to go here, so pack the tripod, some ND filters, and a polarizer. For further details, check out my article about the Tasman Lake and the hike here.

Tasman Lake is perfect for landscape photography, especially at sunrise
Didn’t quite get the sunrise, but this will do

Hooker Valley Track

The Hooker Valley Track is the most famous hiking trail in Mount Cook National Park and for good reason. It’s incredibly beautiful and outstanding for landscape photography, especially when the weather is cooperating. This scenic 10 km track goes past the Mueller Lake, zig-zags through the valley and finally ends at Hooker Lake, another amazing glacial lake. Some people actually hike all the way to the Hooker Lake in the darkness to capture the sunrise. If you’re up for the challenge, by all means go for it, the image will be totally worth it. Personally though, I would recommend the Mueller Lake. It’s a much shorter walk and the views are no less epic.

Mueller Lake as seen from the Hooker Valley Track
Mueller Lake

For more information about the Hooker Valley Track, check out this post of mine where I describe the trail in more details.

Mount Cook Road

I was somewhat reluctant to include this last location in the list, as it’s not, strictly speaking, completely safe or responsible. But then, it’s a beautiful spot and I guess you’ve probably seen images of it on the web and on Instagram anyway. I’m talking about the Mount Cook Road of course. It’s an absolutely stunning highway and easily one of the most scenic in the country known for its scenic roads. As I said, though, I generally don’t recommend shooting on the roads. More often than not, it is not a good idea. If you still decide to go for it, you’re doing it at your own risk. Make absolutely sure to not endanger yourself or other people and always keep an eye on the incoming traffic. Ideally, have someone else watching it for you.

Mount Cook Road
Mount Cook Road

For the best shot, I recommend the last part of the highway, just before it makes a slight turn into the Mount Cook Village. The landscapes here are incredible and the road is level and straight, so you will easily notice the coming cars from far away. I suggest driving this section a couple of times scouting for compositions before finding a safe place to park. Early morning is probably your best bet, as there won’t be much traffic. A telephoto lens is an obvious choice here, as it compresses the background and gives the image a more dramatic look. And of course, it’s one of those locations where placing a model into the frame really helps to tell a story and make the photo shine.

Mount Cook road is incredibly scenic

The five locations above are of course just scratching a surface of what Mount Cook National Park has to offer. But it’s a start and, with some luck, you can walk away with a few stunning photos. I wish I had more time to explore this lovely part of New Zealand, but then again, that’s what I say about every place I’ve been to in this beautiful country. If you enjoyed the article, do check out my YouTube video covering Mt. Cook for a more visual experience. And as always, I’d be happy to hear from you. Share your favorite photography spots in Mount Cook in the comment section below and let’s have a chat!

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Hiking the Hooker Valley Track https://sunsetobsession.com/hooker-valley-track/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=hooker-valley-track https://sunsetobsession.com/hooker-valley-track/#comments Wed, 24 Apr 2019 21:48:50 +0000 https://sunsetobsession.com/?p=4769 Many consider the Hooker Valley Track to be one of the best half-day hikes in New Zealand’s South Island. It is definitely stunning. Yet sadly, we didn’t enjoy it as much as we hoped.

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The Hooker Valley Track is easily the most popular hiking route in the Mount Cook National Park. With lovely alpine scenery at every turn of the road, it’s easy to see why people love it. Many even consider it one of the best half-day hikes in New Zealand’s South Island. And yet, much as I’d love to join all the praise, I cannot. Don’t get me wrong – Hooker Valley Track is a lovely and beautiful walk. I just didn’t enjoy it as much as I thought I would.

Swinging Bridge at Hooker Valley Track, Mt. Cook National Park, New Zealand

Hooker Valley Track

The Hooker Valley Track is a 10 km return hike set amid the incredible alpine scenery in the heart of Mount Cook National Park. The trail begins at the White Horse Hill Car Park, a short 5-minute drive away from the Mt Cook Village. From there, the path goes past the Mueller Lake, crosses the Hooker River a few times and ends at the lookout that offers stunning views over the Hooker Lake and the surrounding mountains. From the lookout, it is possible to go down to the lakeshore and continue the exploration there.

Mueller Lake, Mount Cook National Park, New Zealand
Mueller Lake

The track is well-maintained, relatively level and easy to follow. It’s really more of a leisurely stroll than a proper hike. Anyone with a basic level of fitness should have no issues doing it. The return time is around 3-4 hours but I would probably plan for longer. The area is beautiful, so you will likely stop for photos. Also, the lake at the end is an incredible place to stay and soak in the views for a while. Personally, we didn’t rush it and it took us about six hours to complete the hike.

The view of the Hooker River from one of the swing bridges
The view of the Hooker River from one of the swing bridges

The great thing about the Hooker Valley Track is that you don’t even need to finish it. This walk is more about the journey than the destination. The view at the end is lovely, sure, but it’s just a cherry on the top of the cake. There are amazing vistas all along the way and you don’t have to travel far to see them. This combination of stunning New Zealand scenery and accessibility is exactly what makes this hike so popular and suitable for people of different ages and physical abilities.

Hooker Valley Track, Mount Cook National Park, New Zealand
Hooker Valley Track

From Fun to Dull and Back Again

The start of the hike felt rather uneventful. Other then the Alpine Memorialdedicated to the alpinists who lost their lives and an occasional glimpse of the snow-capped mountains to the right there wasn’t much to see at first. Luckily, the situation soon changed as we reached the first swing bridge. As the path followed the shore of the Mueller Lake to the second bridge, there was no shortage of scenic views of the glacial lake and its surrounding landscape.

Clouds lifted for a short moment above the Mueller Lake
Clouds lifted for a short moment above the Mueller Lake

After crossing the Hooker River for the second time, the path turns away from the Mueller Lake and continues north towards the third and final swing bridge. This is where the Hooker Valley Track quickly started losing its appeal. Under the grey skies, the trail soon started to feel repetitive and somewhat dull. With mountains hidden in the clouds, every turn of the road revealed seemingly the same boring image of grass and rock. Somewhat telling, perhaps, is that I don’t have many good photos from this part of the walk.

Hooker Valley Track looks a bit boring under the clouds
Beautiful, but a bit repetitive

After a couple of hours of hiking, we were relieved to finally reach the Hooker Lake. The overlook at the end has a few tables and benches that are perfect for a quick picnic amid the beautiful Alps.

Hooker Lake overlook
Hooker Lake overlook

After a snack at the lookout, we went down to the lakeshore to take a few photos. I didn’t find much in terms of the foreground, but still water and the icebergs provided a good setting for some nice reflection shots. We also had great fun posing on the rocks next to the river outlet. But above all, being down there let us get away from the touristy crowds at the top and truly enjoy the silence and beauty of the place.

Fish-looking iceberg in Hooker Lake, New Zealand
That iceberg totally looks like a fish. A… fishberg?

Is Hooker Valley Track Worth a Visit?

The short answer is yes. You see, expectations can be a tricky thing. The more we expect something, the more likely it’ll work against us. As you can probably tell from the article so far, the Hooker Valley Track was a bit of a hit and miss for us. Maybe, we just expected too much of it.

Hiking the Hooker Valley Track, Mt. Cook National Park, New Zealand

Or, perhaps, the weather is to blame. Here is what Scott Cook says about the hike in his NZ Frenzy book: “On a clear day, the Hooker Valley Track is indisputably the South Island’s most scenic walk. On a grey clouded-in day, forget it”. I certainly think there is some truth to it. There’s of course nothing wrong with moody conditions. In fact, as a photographer, I sometimes love them more than the clear and sunny ones. I enjoyed the rain at Franz Josef glacier and I loved our hike at Tasman Lake a day earlier. But, for some unknown reason, cloudy weather didn’t work too well for this particular track.

Enjoying the Hooker Lake
Enjoying the Hooker Lake

That’s not to say that the trail is not worth a visit. It’s still a beautiful hike and I still recommend to do it if you have the time. New Zealand is incredibly scenic and the more you get to see of its amazing nature, the better. If you’re lucky enough with the weather, Hooker Valley Track might just blow you away. However, on a cloudy day, there are other options in Mount Cook National Park. For wet and moody, the Tasman Lake would definitely be my first pick. It is a shorter and more entertaining hike with fewer people and similar, if not better, views.

Reflections in the Hooker Lake, New Zealand
Still water of the Hooker Lake is great for reflection shots

It’d certainly be interesting to walk the Hooker Valley Track again if I ever return to New Zealand. It is possible that my opinion of it will change then. In the meantime, check out my YouTube video from there and let me know what you think. I’d love to hear your thoughts on the matter and whether or not you liked the trail. Leave a comment down below and let’s chat!

Landscape photographer's selfie on Hooker Valley Track
Landscape photographer’s selfie

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Hiking the Tasman Lake in Mount Cook National Park https://sunsetobsession.com/hiking-the-tasman-lake/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=hiking-the-tasman-lake https://sunsetobsession.com/hiking-the-tasman-lake/#respond Wed, 17 Apr 2019 09:31:52 +0000 https://sunsetobsession.com/?p=4728 To me, moraine Walk at Tasman Lake is what a true New Zealand experience should look like. No tourists, no other hikers, just you and incredible nature all around.

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As a landscape photographer, I truly enjoy how unpredictable and full of surprises nature can be. It’s amazing how sometimes you find beauty where you never quite anticipated it. Moraine Ridge Walk at Lake Tasman in Mount Cook National Park is exactly that type of place. We expected nothing more than a pleasant stroll to the lakeshore, but it turned out to be one of the highlights of our trip to New Zealand.

Down to the Lake at Tasman Lake hike, New Zealand
Heading down to Tasman Lake

Hiking the Tasman Lake

Mount Cook National Park is well known for its abundance of incredibly beautiful hiking routes of varying difficulty. You might have heard of the famous Hooker Valley Track or the Sealy Tarns trail. Chances are, however, that Moraine Walk at Tasman Lake doesn’t quite ring a bell. Indeed, it’s a not a widely recognized hike at all, and that’s a big part of what makes it so incredible. But we’ll get to that in a second.

A view of mountains from the Moraine Walk
A view of mountains from the trail

Moraine Walk is essentially an unsigned off-trail route that connects the Tasman Lake Viewpoint and the Tasman Lake outlet into a single loop track. Department of Conservation suggests climbing to the viewpoint first, then retracing your steps and taking a completely different road down to the river. What you can do instead, though, is continue past the Tasman Lake Viewpoint onto a moraine ridge. There, a barely visible path will lead you to the riverbank. You get to see the Tasman River and the lake icebergs up close. Then, take a paved walk back to the parking lot, completing the circle.

Full circle hike at Tasman Lake including the Moraine Walk
A map of full circle hike

This creates, in my opinion, a much more diverse and entertaining route. Moraine Walk is great fun and brings you closer to all the good stuff that Tasman Lake has to offer.

Tasman Lake Viewpoint

The journey starts at Tasman Glacier Car Park. From here, a short 15-minute climb leads to the Tasman Lake Viewpoint. In my opinion, this steep ascent is the most difficult and boring part of the hike. Basically, it’s stairs after stairs until you reach the top. Along the way, you’ll encounter a side-trail heading towards the Blue Lakes. Despite the appealing name, these are just small ponds of green water. Blue Lakes used to be blue a long time ago, but have since changed their color as the glaciers retreated. These days they are rather unremarkable, so feel free to skip them. The viewpoint at the top is the real goal here and let me tell you – it is well worth the effort.

Amazing turquoise water of Tasman Lake
That amazing color!

As you emerge at the observation area, you are treated to a sweeping panorama of the Tasman Lake below and the surrounding mountains. On a clear day you can even see Mount Cook in the distance. The deep turquoise color of the water is truly otherworldly. Honestly, I would’ve had a hard time believing the image above, had I not taken it myself. This sight alone is totally worth the trip, so take a moment here to enjoy the surrounding beauty. This place does deserve it.

Tasman Lake and Mount Cook
A classical Instagram photo, but hey, what’s wrong with that?

This is as far as most people go. They turn back thinking they’ve seen all of it. Little do they know that the best part hasn’t even started yet. The next bit is where the fun truly begins. Welcome to the Moraine Walk.

The Moraine Walk

The Moraine Walk trailhead can be found to the right of the viewpoint. The track is barely visible and unmarked, so it’s easy to miss unless you know to look for it. The path instantly dives into a seemingly endless boulder field in between the observation area and the lake, occasionally disappearing from sight. Don’t worry about losing your way, however. Just follow the most obvious route down and you will soon find yourself on the trail again.

Tasman Lake Moraine Walk
Moraine Walk

Moraine is glacial debris, and that’s essentially what this walk is all about. The path follows the ridge down to the lakeshore, making its way through rocks and rubble. Why is that so exciting, you might wonder. Well, for one, there are incredible vistas of the Tasman Lake all along the way. A little further down it also offers an amazing view over the Tasman Valley to the right. The boulders too provide endless photo opportunities, especially if you have a model to place against the backdrop of the lake. But, cool as it is, that’s not what makes this hike so remarkable and unique.

View of the Tasman Valley from the Moraine Walk
View of the Tasman Valley from the Moraine Walk

The best thing about the Moraine Walk is that you will probably have it all to yourself. No tourists, no other hikers, just incredible New Zealand nature all around. It’s hard to describe, but it truly is exceptional. Here is how Scott Cook has put it in his NZ Frenzy book: “Once you leave the tourist horde of happy snappers at the lookout, the surprisingly well-trodden ridge delivers solitude and a DIY adventure, accompanied by some of the finest views in all New Zealand”. And honestly, I’m not sure if I could’ve described it any better. Seriously, it’s that good.

Down at the Lake

The Moraine Walk ends at lake outlet where the Tasman River originates. The outlet offers a different view of the Tasman Lake and the mountains in the background. Much like the viewpoint above, it is a place to simply take in the beauty of the surrounding landscape. Have a rest, watch the icebergs flow by and immerse yourself in a true New Zealand experience.

View over Lake Tasman, New Zealand

This is also a very popular photography spot, especially at dawn. Unfortunately, I don’t have a sunrise image myself, as it has been raining almost non-stop for the two days that I spent in Mount Cook National Park. But if the weather looks promising, definitely consider coming here in the morning. It’ll mean an early start, for sure, but the views will be absolutely lovely. But don’t take my word for it, see for yourself

Rocks and icebergs at Tasman Lake
My best attempt at what could be a nice sunrise shot

At this point, our little adventure is almost over. Spend some time at the lakeshore, then return to the parking lot via a paved marked road. An easy 20-minute or so stroll will lead you back to where we started.

Icebergs of Tasman Lake, New Zealand

I really enjoyed hiking the Tasman Lake and the Moraine Walk. To me, it represents what a true New Zealand experience should look like. I had a great time there and I’m sure you would too. To those still reading at this point, I do recommend checking my YouTube video from the location to see why I loved it so much as well as an amazing book NZ Frenzy by Scott Cook. I cited it earlier in the article and it’s where I learned about the Moraine Walk in the first place. It’s a great source of information for anyone traveling to New Zealand and amazing for finding these kinds of off-the-beaten-path spots. And as always, if you have any questions or comments, leave them down below and I’ll do my best to respond!

Tourist boat approaching the icebergs
Tourist boat approaching the icebergs

*This text contains an affiliate link. If you decide to make a purchase, I’ll get a very small commission, at absolutely no cost to you. I don’t place ads in this blog, so it’s the single best way to support me and my work. I’m truly grateful to each and every one of you who choose to do so.

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Landscape Photographer’s Mini Guide to Wanaka https://sunsetobsession.com/landscape-photographers-mini-guide-to-wanaka/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=landscape-photographers-mini-guide-to-wanaka https://sunsetobsession.com/landscape-photographers-mini-guide-to-wanaka/#respond Wed, 03 Apr 2019 21:41:47 +0000 https://sunsetobsession.com/?p=4525 With snowy mountains, beautiful lakes, and lovely hikes Wanaka is any landscape photographer’s dream. In this mini-guide I go over the best photo locations in the Wanaka region.

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With snow-capped mountains, beautiful lakes, and many picturesque hikes, the Wanaka region is without a doubt every landscape photographer’s dream. One can easily spend a few days in this amazing area and only get a taste of it. Unfortunately, we couldn’t stay more than one night before heading to Mt. Cook on the following day. This means I only had one sunset and one sunrise to work with. And while this might not sound like a lot, in this landscape photographer’s mini-guide to Wanaka I provide some tips on how to make the most out of this limited time.

Snowy Mountains above lake Wanaka, New Zealand
Snowy Mountains above lake Wanaka

Sunset at Wanaka Tree

For sunset, I recommend heading to the infamous Wanaka Tree. A lonely little tree growing in the water makes for a stunning composition. I know, I know – it’s one of those places that everybody and their mother photographs. Heck, it might even be the most famous landmark in New Zealand. Still, it’s such a lovely view that it would be a shame to leave without a picture of your own. As far as I’m concerned, if you could only have one shot from Wanaka, it should definitely be that of the Wanaka Tree.

Wanaka Tree should is a must-see spot in this landscape photographer's mini guide to Wanaka
I was extremely lucky with the sunset

Wanaka Tree is great for both sunset and sunrise, but I suggest coming here in the evening. That way you can have another attempt in the morning if the light isn’t ideal. Having said that, I think you can get a good photo here almost in any conditions. You just need to approach the scene a little differently depending on the weather. For instance, the image below was taken at noon the next day, shortly before we left for Mt. Cook. It was raining and the landscape looked nothing like it did at sunset. It was still beautiful though and I like how the photo turned out.

Wanaka Tree on a rainy morning, New Zealand
Wanaka Tree on a rainy day

Wanaka Tree is super easy to find. Just park at the lakefront and walk a few meters until you see it. In my experience, long exposures work much better here, so make sure to pack a tripod and an ND filter. With faster shutter speeds the ripple of the lake becomes too much of a distraction in the photo. But don’t keep the shutter open for too long as the leaves shuffled by the wind may end up looking blurry. 

Sunrise at Rocky Mountain

If you’re up for an early rise and a bit of exercise, I definitely suggest a sunrise photo from higher up in the mountains. Lake Wanaka and the surrounding hills look incredible from above. Getting to a good vantage point will require some hiking though. There are several good hikes in the area, but the simplest option is probably the Diamond Lake and Rocky Mountain trail. It’s an hour long journey to the top but the view from the Rocky Mountain summit is absolutely fabulous.

View from the summit of Rocky Mountain
You can see Roys Peak summit from the top of Rocky Mountain (upper right)

Make sure you’re up for the challenge, however. Rocky Mountain trail is a steep and demanding track, so you need to be reasonably fit. Some sections even involve a little bit of climbing, though nothing too complicated. I suggest hiking counter-clockwise, as it’s a little easier. Since you will be doing it in complete darkness, have a flashlight ready and allow yourself plenty of time. I started out somewhat late and had to push really hard to get to the top before the morning spectacle began. Even so, it took me about 50 minutes and I was completely out of breath when I finally reached the summit.

Rocky Mountain summit at sunrise
Finally at the summit!

The view from Rocky Mountain, however, is worth all the sweat and effort. There’s plenty of goodness no matter where you look. To the west, snow-covered mountain ridge is catching the early morning glow. To the east, Lake Wanaka is beautifully illuminated by the sun rising from behind the mountains on the horizon. An absolutely astonishing sight, and New Zealand at its very best. Take an image but also allow yourself a moment to simply enjoy the lovely and peaceful morning.

Landscape Photographer's Mini Guide to Wanaka
Fire sunrise at Rocky Peak, Wanaka, New Zealand

If You Have More Time

Wanaka Tree and the Rocky Mountain are just the beginning. If your itinerary allows it, I highly suggest staying in Wanaka for a few more days. In my opinion, it is one of the most beautiful regions of New Zealand, amazing for both landscape photography and simply exploring. Below are just some of my recommendations on what to do if you have more time.

Roys Peak

Roys Peak is, without a doubt, Wanaka’s best-known hike and for good reason. The views from up top are fantastic. It’s a long 5-6 hour trail, but an absolute must do. And if you can get to the summit for sunrise or sunset, you’re in for a real treat! Just check some amazing images of it over at Rach Stewart’s website. Roys Peak would definitely have been my first choice over the Rocky Mountain, had it not been closed for lambing in October when we were there. This still makes me upset. Dammit, why do they have to close it for more than a month every year?!

Isthmus Peak

Isthmus Peak is an excellent hike in its own right and probably the closest alternative to Roys Peak if the latter is closed. It is a more demanding climb, but the views are fabulous. Especially if you muster the courage to tackle it in the darkness before sunrise. Honestly, though, you won’t be disappointed no matter when you go. Note that Isthmus Peak also closes annually in late November and early December.

Rob Roy Track

A little further north from Wanaka, Rob Roy Track in Mount Aspiring National Park is an amazing mountain trail with some astonishing vistas. Some even claim it to be one of the most picturesque trails of the South Island of New Zealand. Unfortunately, only the lower section of it is officially open during winter, which is a bit disappointing. Also, the dirt road leading to the track is prone to washouts, so watch the conditions before you go. Unless you have a 4×4, that is.

Sunrise at Rocky Mountain Summit

I was sad to leave Wanaka so soon, without having a chance to see everything it has to offer. But Mt. Cook was calling and with only two weeks in New Zealand, we had to make compromises. For now, I hope this landscape photographer’s mini-guide to Wanaka has been helpful. As always – if you have any comments and questions, let me know! And of course – check out my YouTube video from Wanaka to get a glimpse of what it felt like there.

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Fox Glacier Heli Hike – Worth the Money? https://sunsetobsession.com/fox-glacier-heli-hike/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=fox-glacier-heli-hike https://sunsetobsession.com/fox-glacier-heli-hike/#respond Wed, 27 Mar 2019 12:17:21 +0000 https://sunsetobsession.com/?p=4484 Many describe a heli hike on Fox Glacier as once in a lifetime experience. But with the cost of it so high, is it really worth the money? Perhaps. But probably not to everyone.

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The engines grew louder, and the helicopter took to the air. As I watched Fox Glacier disappear into the distance, I couldn’t help but feel frustrated. I wish I could tell you that the heli hike had been a highlight of my trip to New Zealand. I wish I could join hundreds of praising reviews that describe the experience as incredible and amazing. At the very worst, I wish I could at least promise that it is absolutely not worth the money. But unfortunately, the truth is always somewhere in between.

Helicopter Approaching Fox Glacier, New Zealand
Helicopter Approaching Fox Glacier

What Is a Heli Hike?

To begin with, what exactly is a heli hike? Simply put, it’s a hike where you use a helicopter to get to the beginning of the hiking trail. While the term applies to any such activity, it is most commonly used to describe the helicopter tours at Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers in New Zealand (just google “heli hike”). The tours generally include a helicopter flight to and from the glacier and a few hours walk on ice accompanied by a professional guide.

Heli hike guide making way
Heli hike guide making way

As anything involving a helicopter flight, the heli hikes are expensive. As of this writing, prices start at NZD$469.00 for both Franz Josef and Fox glaciers. That is a lot of money to pay for a tour. Naturally, a question arises – is it really worth the investment? Well, a lot of peoplesure think so. My guess is that partly, that’s because both glaciers have retreated massively in recent years. Taking a heli hike is now pretty much the only remaining way to step on them. But also, it simply sounds like such a cool (pun intended!) and fun thing to do.

Walking the ice
Walking the ice

All This Money Just to Walk On Ice?

I have to be honest, at first I didn’t find the idea of doing a heli hike super enticing. I’m used to snow, so to me, paying a lot of money for what is essentially a walk on frozen water didn’t sound too enticing. But I had to change my mind after looking at the incredible photos from the heli hikes that I found online. Images like theseor these, where people enter the ice caves or squeeze through the narrow ice tunnels. Going through an amazing deep blue maze is an experience that’s not easy to get even where I’m from. A photographer in me instantly got excited.

Deep blue patterns in the ice
Deep blue patterns in the ice

Once you decide to spend the money, choosing the company is the next step. The tours are very similar in what they offer, so picking one really comes down to personal preference. Eventually, we decided on Fox Glacier heli hike by Fox Glacier Guiding, simply because it fit our itinerary better. With the tickets booked, we were really looking forward to an unforgettable experience. A helicopter flight, an incredible day at the glacier, and some amazing photos to top it of. What could possibly go wrong? Turns out, quite a few things.

An Hour Waiting, Ten Minutes in the Air

It was raining from the very morning on the day of our tour. Unsure if the flight was happening, we called Fox Glacier Guiding and were told that conditions were being monitored. They wouldn’t know for certain until the last minute. The situation didn’t get much clearer even after arriving at the office. The decision was being repeatedly postponed while the tour company was deciding what to do.

Glacier helicopter ready to take off
Will it fly today?

Eventually, we were informed that the weather showed signs of improvement and given the go ahead. By then, it was almost forty minutes past our scheduled departure time. After the safety briefing, the guides handed out the equipment and took us to the helicopter. The flight to Fox Glacier turned out to be a very short one, ten minutes at most. We got to see a couple of cool views, but it didn’t even compare to the hour-long helicopter tours I had taken on Kauai and over Grand Canyon. This flight is not about sightseeing but about getting people to the ice, where the real adventure starts.

First View of Fox Glacier
First View of Fox Glacier

The Reality of a Heli Hike

The rain was still pouring as we landed. Under the grey sky, Fox Glacier looked dirty and uninviting. After putting on the crampons we finally set off. The guides lead the way with everyone else following in their footsteps. Literally. Even with crampons on, Fox glacier can be dangerous, so the guides instruct everyone to step exactly where they did. Moving in a row like this made the entire process painfully slow.

Everyone lining up behind the guide at Fox Glacier hell hike
Everyone lining up behind the guide

It also makes photography extremely difficult. As a landscape photographer, I like putting some thought in my photos. I try to get a feel of the place, wander around a bit, then wait for the right conditions. Sadly, none of this is possible on the Fox Glacier heli hike. Your best bet is to try and snatch a photo on the go or wait for a quick break. All the photos in this article were taken like that and that some of them came out half decent is nothing short of a miracle.

Ice Ridge at Fox Glacier, New Zealand

But how about the ice caves that I was looking forward to so much? Well, nothing – we never got to see the caves. We were just heading towards one when our guide informed us of a message from the ground control. Apparently, the weather was getting worse, so all groups had to turn back and leave the glacier immediately. Otherwise, we risked getting stuck on the glacier overnight. By my own account, we had only been walking for about 25 minutes.

Bad weather rolling in at Fox Glacier hell hike
Bad weather rolling in

The rest happened quickly. Everyone was rushed back to the landing side with no time to stop, explore or photograph. Crampons were collected and one by one the groups were flown off the ice. As I watched Fox Glacier disappear in the distance, I couldn’t help but wonder – was this even worth it?

Is the Heli Hike Really Worth It?

For me, the easy answer is no. I was hoping for some great images, but all I got is a couple of half decent shots. I was looking forward to exploring the ice caves, but we never reached them. The helicopter flight was cool but only lasted 10 minutes. All in all, given the outcome, I would much rather have saved the money and explored something else.

Crampons on at Fox Glacier hell hike
Wish I could have given these a proper test

But then again, our excursion only lasted 2 hours instead of the 4 that it should have. I understand that weather is unpredictable and that safety must always come first. And yet, I can’t help but wonder. If the conditions looked so bad that day, why not cancel the tour? The cynic in me says the company just wanted to do the minimum and avoid the cancellation losses. The optimist points out it gave people a chance to at least have a look at the glacier up close, if only a quick one.

On the go shots at Fox Glacier heli hike
A couple of on the go shots

Perhaps on a clear sunny day, Fox Glacier heli hike could be the once in a lifetime experience that some people claim it is. I don’t know. Perhaps, I will never know. I do know, however, that those ice caves still look pretty cool. And that I would be more than willing to give them another try. When the conditions are right.

Patterns in the ice
Patterns in the ice

I talk about Fox Glacier in more detail in my YouTube video, so make sure to have a look. And as always, I’d be interested in your opinion. Would you do the Fox Glacier heli hike? Or perhaps you already did? Did you enjoy it? Let me know in the comments, let’s chat!

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Rainy Day at Franz Josef Glacier https://sunsetobsession.com/rainy-day-at-franz-josef-glacier/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=rainy-day-at-franz-josef-glacier https://sunsetobsession.com/rainy-day-at-franz-josef-glacier/#comments Wed, 20 Mar 2019 08:54:53 +0000 https://sunsetobsession.com/?p=4420 Franz Josef Glacier is one of the famous must-see destinations in New Zealand. But is the hike to the glacier worth it on a rainy day? Is the glacier even visible? We decided to find out.

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Franz Josef Glacier was high on our list of must-see locations in New Zealand, so we were really excited as we left Hokitika heading south-west. Unfortunately, our hopes for the stunning views soon plummeted as Franz Josef greeted us with dark skies and relentless rain. Would the glacier be even visible in these conditions? We didn’t know. But we had to find out.

Franz Josef valley and glacier in the rain, New Zealand

Franz Josef Glacier Walk

Franz Josef Glacier is one of the most famous glaciers in New Zealand and a well-known tourist attraction. There is a couple of different hiking routes that lead to the glacier. Given the conditions, we chose the shorter, more popular one, called Franz Josef Glacier Walk. However, if you enjoy hiking and the weather is fine, you might also consider the Roberts Point Track. Though considerably more difficult, it apparently offers better views. Keep in mind that neither trail lets you enter the ice. For that, your only option is a helicopter tour.

There are a few options for hiking at Franz Josef Glacier
There are a few options for hiking at Franz Josef Glacier

Franz Josef Glacier Walk is a relatively short 1.5 hours return hike. It starts at the parking lot, then leads through the forest to the valley overlook. From there the path follows the valley floor all the way to the observation area at the bottom of the glacier. It’s an easy and enjoyable hike with almost no elevation gain, and I wholeheartedly recommend it to everybody.

Beginning of hiking trail
Beginning of the hike

Hiking in the Rain

It was still raining full force when we reached the first overlook so the view was rather unimpressive. Interestingly, though wet and unfriendly, the valley looked strangely appealing. Under the dark clouds, the vast rocky landscape felt desolate and almost Mordor-like. I think it was the first time New Zealand truly reminded me of the Lord of the Rings.

Lord of the Rings landscape
Lord of the Rings landscape

If there is one great thing about the rain however, it’s that it creates some impressive waterfalls. And as we continued our way towards Franz Josef Glacier, we saw enough proof of that. Dozens of little waterfalls appeared at the sides of the canyon and on the cliffs around us. It literally seemed as if the rock itself was weeping.

Weeping rock
Weeping Rock

Hiking in the rain may sound romantic or brave to some, but in reality, it’s rarely pleasant. It rains often in New Zealand, so make sure to pack some water-resistant clothing. I also highly recommend waterproof hiking shoes. There aren’t many things that can make your life miserable as quickly as wet feet.

Proper clothing (and an umbrella!) are essential for rainy walks
Proper clothing (and an umbrella!) are essential for rainy walks

Fading Glory of Franz Josef Glacier

Luckily, as we were approaching the end of the trail, the rain subsided a little and we soon caught our first glimpse of Franz Josef in the distance. As we came closer, the clouds lifted just enough to reveal the famous glacier in all its glory. Even in the grey overcast conditions the wall of ice still looked quite impressive. And yet, I couldn’t help to wonder just how truly grandiose it must have been only a few short years back.

View from the end of the Franz Josef Glacier walk
View from the end of the trail

Prior to coming to New Zealand, I have read a lot of reports saying that Franz Josef glacier had retreated dramatically in recent years. By the time we reached the observation area at the end of the trail, it became apparent that, sadly, these reports have been true. Once, the snow masses descended all the way to the bottom of the valley and beyond. These days, only the upper portion of the slope is covered with ice. The rest is rocks and sediment. The amazing blue color still shines through but it’s diluted heavily by the black dirt.

Up close and personal with Franz Josef Glacier
Up close and personal with Franz Josef Glacier

It truly is sad. As people, we often tend to disregard the damage our actions inflict to the surrounding environment. And yet, one glance at Franz Josef is enough to realize that climate change is very real and is happening at accelerating speed. At the current pace, once mighty glacier will completely disappear from sight in just a few years.

View of Franz Josef Glacier as clouds have lifted
View of the glacier as clouds have lifted

The Takeaway

The day was beginning to fade by the time we got back to the car. I managed to capture a few images I felt content with. And despite being soaked to the bone, we were both incredibly happy with the experience. For me, that’s the main takeaway here. The valley walk is incredibly beautiful and well worth the effort even on a rainy day. The waterfalls created by the rain and the mist-shrouded cliffs make it look ethereal and other-worldly. And the glacier at the end is still an impressive sight.

Trident Falls en route to Franz Josef Glacier
Trident Falls en route to Franz Josef Glacier

I also want to reiterate that it rains a lot in New Zealand, especially on the West Coast. Make sure to factor that in when making plans. A clear sunny day is never a given and you have to be ready for wet conditions. Pack water-resistant clothing and always have a plan B in case the weather does not cooperate. And remember – a bit of rain is not the end of the world. New Zealand in general and Franz Josef Glacier in particular are both immensely spectacular on a wet day. So don’t let a little moisture strip you of a memory of a lifetime.

Clouds and Mist make for some beautiful images
Rainy landscapes can still be beautiful

A Few Notes on Photography

Even though the glacier has retreated, it is still a very compelling subject. You will probably find yourself framing it in multiple compositions. But the hike has a lot more to offer, especially on a rainy day. There are waterfalls of course, but also the valley itself looks fantastic with all the clouds and the mist. It took me a long time to learn, but the best shots are not always about an epic burning sky. If the weather is all rain, look for the mood and atmosphere. Think about the Lord of the Rings movies with its often dark and gloomy landscapes. Also, try to work people into the shots, human presence often gives a sense of scale and dimension to the surroundings.

People add scale and dimension to the landscape
People add scale and dimension to the landscape

Gear-wise, I mostly used the wide lens, but for close-up shots of the ice you might want to pack a long zoom. I would also advise taking a tripod if you are interested in shooting waterfalls. Slower shutter speed is the key to make the water look smooth and silky, and you’ll need a tripod for that. I also highly recommend having a polarizer filter, especially on a rainy day. The cliffs are mostly comprised of black rock that tends to reflect a lot of light when wet. The gleam can create some nasty distractions in the shot and the polarizer filter helps to avoid that.

Waterfall Rock at Franz Josef Glacier, New Zealand

If you liked this article, I have a few more on New Zealand that you might find helpful. I also have a YouTube video where I go into more detail about the Franz Joseph glacier. And of course, I would also appreciate hearing from you. If you happen to have any questions or comments, leave them down below and I’ll be glad to help!

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Photographing Hokitika – Worth a Quick Stop? https://sunsetobsession.com/hokitika/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=hokitika https://sunsetobsession.com/hokitika/#respond Mon, 11 Feb 2019 14:31:38 +0000 https://sunsetobsession.com/?p=4232 Hokitika is a cool little town in New Zealand that really tries to sell itself as a "must-stay" destination. But we left it with somewhat mixed feelings. In this article, I discuss why.

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We discovered Hokitika almost by pure chance. Our next destination in New Zealand after Wharariki Beach was Franz Joseph Glacier. But since it was simply too far to drive to in one go, we decided to play it safe and find a place somewhere in between, have some rest, then head to the glacier the following morning. That’s when Hokitika caught our eye. Located two hours away from Franz Josef and described online as a cool little town with a beautiful emerald water gorge nearby, it appeared to be a perfect spot to spend the night and capture some nice photos. But did it live up to the expectations?

Hokitika Beach Sign
As long as the sky cooperates, a straight on shot works pretty well with the beach sign

Our plan was super simple – explore Hokitika Beach in the evening and then visit the nearby gorge in the morning. We arrived before sunset which left us enough time to head down to the beach to catch the last light. Much as I love photographing ocean sunsets, finding a compelling composition on the shore is not always an easy task. For this occasion, however, I already had a very particular image in mind. While doing the research prior to the trip I came across a few photos of the Hokitika Beach. Some of them featuring what looked like some sort of impromptu artwork made of driftwood set up and arranged as to form the town’s name. Erected right at the waterfront, to me it looked like an excellent foreground element for a beautiful sunset image. And that’s exactly what I was after.

The beach sign was incredibly easy to find. Just head over to the beach parking lot and you will instantly see it. There honestly isn’t much science to getting a photo in that location. Since the driftwood sign is such a prominent foreground, the only choice is essentially where to position yourself while taking an image. The obvious thing to do is simply shoot the sign straight on. However, I would also suggest watching the conditions and framing the shot to capture the most drama in the sky. In a place like this, where there is little variation in the subject, unique or dramatic conditions are the number one thing that could differentiate your photo from those taken by others.

Sunset on Hokitika Beach
Here I moved to the side to capture the most action in the sky

After you’re done with the main photo, be sure to check out the armchair installed right next to the Hokitika sign. That’s right, an armchair. I have no idea who put it there and why, but it is excellent for some fun photos. Being a landscape photographer and constantly chasing the best light can be very tiring sometimes, so it was extremely refreshing to simply fool around for a change. Below are some of the shots that I managed. I’m absolutely certain that someone with better imagination can achieve far cooler results.

Having fun on Hokitika Beach
Having some fun with the chair

Content with the evening’s shots, we retreated back to hotel. The plan was to catch some rest before heading to the gorge in the morning. Hokitika Gorge is a beautiful ravine known for its emerald green water, a short 33 km drive from town. It looked absolutely fabulous on the images that I’ve seen on the web prior to the trip, and I definitely had high expectations for it. Alas, the sunrise the next day brought nothing but a gloomy grey sky and never-ending rain. We tried to wait it out, but it just wouldn’t relent. In the end, we put on every bit of waterproof clothing that we had and walk to the gorge anyway. With any luck, we thought, the weather would improve by the time we get there.

Swinging Bridge
Hiking under the rain

The hike to Hokitika Gorge is a short and pleasant one. It goes through the forest, over a pretty cool swinging bridge, and then descends onto the observation platform above the ravine. Even in wet and rainy conditions, it wasn’t too difficult or muddy. It took us no longer than 15 minutes to reach the viewpoint.

Forest trail
When conditions don’t cooperate, I always try to find more intimate details in the landscape

From the observation deck, it is possible to go even further down to the river level. However, by that point, it was dead obvious that it was going to be an exercise in futility. The rain just kept pouring and in these conditions, Hokitika Gorge looked nothing like the images we had seen.

Hokitika gorge under pouring rain
Not quite what I imagined

Stubborn as I am, I still ventured down the slippery rocks to capture the image, but somehow I doubt that Hokitika tourist office will be in touch about licensing it anytime soon. At least I can find some solace in knowing that it is somewhat unique amidst all the stunning pictures available online. In all seriousness though, I simply don’t think hiking to the gorge is worth it when it’s wet. There are places that look amazing in rain, but Hokitika Gorge is not one of them. You really need a calm sunny day to truly bring out that incredible turquoise color in the water.

View of the gorge from the river level
Rainy gorge

We left Hokitika with some mixed feelings. Official website really tries hard to sell the town as a “must-stay” destination. Nonetheless, while I enjoyed my time there, I still think it’s quite an overstatement. It is indeed a cool little town with a couple of interesting spots, but it definitely is not a place that comes to mind when I recall all the amazing things I have seen in New Zealand. Both the beach sign and the gorge were interesting to explore, but to me, it just isn’t enough to justify a visit. After all, there’s plenty of other insanely picturesque places in New Zealand to choose from. If Hokitika falls neatly into your itinerary, it’s not a bad place to spend the night. That said, I wouldn’t go out of my way to see it.

I also have a YouTube video from Hokitika, so make sure to check it out and as always, I’d be glad to hear your opinion. Have you been to Hokitika? If not, do you want to? If yes, was it an absolute must-see? Let me know!

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